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About the Routes at Smith Rock
Smith is a recreational climber's heaven from numerous points of view, yet some key factors should be remembered for a great outing.
Novices will without a doubt see something abnormal about the main bolt on a considerable amount of the courses: it is regularly 15 feet off the ground, and there will probably be some committing moves paving the way to it. This goes for courses of practically any evaluation, from the 5.8 shipping lanes to the 5.13 and .14 tasks. A significant number of these courses start on slopes too which makes a pre-cut tumble an incredibly, very bad idea.
Try not to spare a moment to bring a stick-clip down into the recreation center with you, and get ready to be fairly modest about the climbing. Individuals do sometimes take some bad falls before the first bolt has been clipped on the more popular courses, which can undoubtedly be avoided by pre-clipping the 'draw.
You don't frequently see courses here with bolts every 5 ft. as you would at different regions, and keeping in mind that it very well might be scary from the outset you'll figure out how to adore it as you invest more energy here. If it's your first time at Smith it wouldn't be an ill-conceived notion to get going gradually and attempt a modest bunch of highways a level or 3 beneath the thing you're accustomed to climbing, just to ensure you're agreeable.
Classic Climbing Routes at Smith Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest-rated climbing routes in this area.
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pioneer Route (s) Monkey Face 314 5.7 C0 Trad, Sport, Aid 3 pitches
West Face Variation (s) Monkey Face 155 5.8 C0 Trad, Aid 5 pitches
Monkey Off My Back (s) Monkey Face 114 5.8+ Sport
Zion (g) Morning Glory Wall 321 5.10a/b Trad 4 pitches
Bad Finger (z) Lower Gorge > W Side > (2) Wildfire Wall 156 5.10b Trad
Last Chance (z) Lower Gorge > W Side > (3) Catwalk Cliff 80 5.10c Trad
Moons of Pluto (q) Mesa Verde Wall 371 5.10d Sport
Wartley's Revenge (l) Christian B� > Christian Brothers -� 117 5.11a Trad 3 pitches
Pure Palm (z) Lower Gorge > W Side > (2) Wildfire Wall 172 5.11a Sport
Vomit Launch (f) Cocaine Gully 265 5.11b Sport
Monkey Space (s) Monkey Face 107 5.11b Sport 2 pitches
Dreamin' (l) Christian B� > Christian Brothers -� 94 5.12a Sport
Heinous Cling Start (k) The Dihedrals 203 5.12a Sport
Heinous Cling (k) The Dihedrals 101 5.12c Sport
Chain Reaction (k) The Dihedrals 123 5.12c Sport
For More Climbing Routes at Smith Rock
Smith Rock Climbing Routes by Grade
Mountain Project - Beyond the Guidebook Route Finder